Cashmere and leather coat #1

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I wanted a coat half-redingote, half dress. That’s how I started my 60-hours work master piece.

Inspiration: 19th century
1

The least we could say is that silhouettes from the 19th century do have some panache. That’s what inspired me for this project, and I wanted a coat tight on the torso, that highlights the waist and gets as large as a dress on the lower part.

Thought I didn’t want it to be as long as a historic redingote. I love when we see part of the legs, lil boots and the beginning of the skirt under a winter coat.

Swirling part

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I remember a long skirt I got when I was about 6. I used to spend hours swirling in front of a mirror to see it getting as much volume as a princess dress and see the fabric dancing as I was moving. That may be why I am still fan of feminine skirts that move with us as we walk.

As for the coat: this inspired me an extra-large lower part, puffy and voluminous.

Design & pattern

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Well aware of the challenge, I started to look for a pattern relatively closed to what I had in mind, ready to make a few changes to get what I wanted. I dug into the pile of sewing magazines and found this jacket pattern. I used the torso as a base, completely changed the lower part and added 2 pockets —for gloves, subway tickets and who knows what!

Colors

After having worn too man black coats on winter, I got fed up of this color. Besides, when it’s already gloomy and when we’re fighting with a morning cold, a little bit of color is always welcome. As I love fall colors, I decided to go for dark green or dark red and to make a bicolore tailored collar.

Fabric

I can’t help but being fascinated by “noble” fabric, as for the way it feels on the skin, looks at the light and can last forever. After having saved enough, I bought cashmere and leather for the coat and silk for the lining.

As for the leather: I was about to go for brown or dark green, when I felt for this breathtaking piece —and yes, it was love at 1st sight.

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For the story, I spent almost 1hour in the sewing shop of Montmartre looking for buttons that match both the cashmere and the leather I just picked up. I finally got what I wanted with these ones:

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